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Silky terrier aggression...help!!!

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  • Silky terrier aggression...help!!!

    My husband and I have had our silky terrier for over a year. We went through all the training programs and he seemed to do well. He has a ton of energy and is also extremely stubborn. He has recently started to become slightly aggressive. When he is told to sit, he will do it, but will bark back at me. He also has started to bite the our ankles when we walk away from him. If he wants our attention he jumps up at us or bites us. Does anyone have any suggestions on re-training him? What we've been doing doesn't seem to work and we're at the end of our rope! Thanks.

  • #2
    Perhaps you could start by telling us what you have been doing
    Blessed Be

    Salem Witch Child

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    • #3
      Well, we took him for training when he was just a few months old. We did a lot fo research on the trainers in our area and went with the one that seemed to get the most results. At first I was apprehensive about her traiing method. Our dog wheres a cloth choker collar and always has a drage cord on. When he is told to sit, if he does not listen he gets a quick pull on the leash or drag cord. It seems a lot harsher than it si. The trainer explained to me over and over that this does not hurt the dog, it merely gets his attention. So this is how we've been correcting him. He knows exactly what we want him to do, but is extremely stubborn and willful. So when we correct him, he get mad and tries to bite the cord or even our hands. So this is a problem. We were also told to say the word fooey when he does something bad. This worked for the first few times, but it doesn't seem to be doing much anymore.

      Then there is the issue of biting for our attention. For example if I am typing on the computer, our dog will come over, jump on us an dbite the sleeve of my shirt. We know this is for our attention, btu we alwso need to correct the behavior. But if we correct him, we are giving him the attention we wanted in th first place. So we don't know what to do. Obviously what we've been doing has worked, so we're open to all suggestions.

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      • #4
        1) is this dog neutered? If not, do that NOW.

        2) have you spoken to the breeder of this dog? They should be able to help you.

        3) Training class is needed, and now. Problems such are you are describing indicate a dog who has no respect for you as his leaders. These things do not get better over time, they get worse. You need help, and you need it now. DO NOT DELAY. Call around NOW and find a class to go to, or a professional who will come to your house. Find someone who uses POSITIVE training methods. Collar correction is fine, but rewards are ALWAYS better if they work.

        4) Go here, read this article carefully, and print it out. Your dog should live precisely by the rules in this piece for at least 8 weeks. THIS METHOD OF RANK REDUCTION ABSOLUTELY WORKS....but you must be firm, fair, consistent, and you must present a LEADER figure to your dog.

        http://www.chowwelfare.com/cciw/alpha.htm

        You are on the brink of a very serious behavior problem with this dog. I cannot express enough the importance of handling this IMMEDIATELY and in the right way.

        Good luck.
        Redyre Rottweilers
        "Penny" U-CH Eternal Moon Finders Keepers
        "Didds", TT * "V-"PeeWee" BH AD IPO 1 TT
        Waiting at the Bridge...
        V-Roxy CD, ASCA CD, TT, TDI, HIC, CGC
        Best in Vet Sweeps, ARC Reg. IV Specialty, 9/01

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        • #5
          RedyreRottweilers I love that site, it gose by what we used to train are pup almost exactly, all but two things, once he knew his place we started to wrestle with him, but the game ended when we wanted it to, not him and we pinned him. If he tried to start a wrestling game we pinned him and made him make eye contact untill he looked away first, this worked so well that he started closing his eyes just to stop from having to look at us.

          And the sleeping in our bedroom, our dogs have always been allowed in our bedroom, but on the floor, unless we invite them up they always slept on the floor, when they come up, its only for a couple of minutes. I worry about adult dogs that get to this point, I recently placed a male rottie in a home and he was full grown and mouthed, that was an amasing amount of thinking on how to teach him he didn't want a hand in his mouth where he was such a big boy. In the end we forced our hand farher in his mouth and held it there while he tried to back it out until we took it out, this worked great to stop his mouthing.

          But the sit for everything works wonders, even to be petted, it was sit, then pet, sit then eat, sit the be given the toy, and only one toy at a time and when he was done it was pick it up. The floor doesn't give you toys, we do. And we free fed our dogs, so we were very strong on the all of the rest of the training because we don't believe in feeding scheduals, or at least we didn't, but our rescue has a weight problem and a joint problem so we had to change for him.

          But this is an awsome page, I think vets should give this out to all new puppy owners it would help with so many problems out there.
          The reason dogs are great is they wag their tails, not their tongues.

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